If gauge frustrates you, let me show you something.
This long-form Esenote is about gauge—but don’t worry, it’s not the same 'knit a swatch, know your gauge, be wise' advice you’ve probably read a hundred times before. 😑
Instead, I’m going to tell you a few stories, show you one of my first sweaters, and offer real solutions for when the classic "just go up or down a needle size" advice doesn’t work.
So, let’s start with the common scenario you’ve probably been in before.
Every time you open a new pattern, there it is: Gauge: 16 stitches x 22 rows = 10 cm.
And every time, your brain has the same response: Ugh. Skip it.
I get it. You’re excited. You want to dive in, cast on, and watch your garment take shape. Stopping to knit a tiny test square feels like a complete waste of time. And a waste of yarn.
Or maybe you do knit a swatch. You try to be responsible, like a model knitter. You finish your square, measure it, but your stitches don’t match the pattern.
Too many stitches? Too few? Now what?
You could adjust your needle size, redo the swatch, and go through the whole process again…
Or you could do what many knitters do. Shrug. Pretend it doesn’t matter. And cast on anyway. What’s the worst that could happen?
Let me tell you.
I was exactly the same. Too ambitious, too eager, and honestly, I didn’t even understand what gauge was. So I skipped it. I just knitted.
Here’s how my knitting journey started: super chunky sweaters. You know the ones—those massive, trendy knits that were all over Etsy in 2016-2017.
I made them for orders, and they were fun. Two rectangles for the body. Two rectangles for the sleeves. No shaping, no worries. Just big needles (25 mm!) and instant results.
Fast forward to 2020, and I decided it was time for my first 'real' sweater—no chunky wool, no shortcuts.
And now you won’t believe what I did next. Not only did I skip the swatch—I skipped the pattern, too. Yep. I printed out a lace chart, somehow figured out the stitch pattern repeat, added stockinette edges, and I kept knitting... until I felt like stopping.
Now, looking back at those photos, so many questions pop into my head.
- How did I shape the neckline? No idea. Probably just guessed.
- How did I calculate the fit? I didn’t.
- Did I understand gauge? Nope.
Don’t consider me a knitting Mozart—because here’s the truth: that sweater was a mess.
The back was completely off in tension. The fit? Questionable at best. To top it off, I unknowingly picked one of the least beginner-friendly yarns—blown yarn, Drops Air. Definitely not the best choice for an improvised project.
And yet? I was so proud. I wore that sweater constantly. I told everyone I had knitted it (whether they asked or not 🙂). For about two weeks. Then, I put it on a shelf and didn’t touch anything thinner than super chunky yarn (Crazy Sexy Wool) again until 2023.
Why? Because even though I was excited, I knew something wasn’t right. It didn’t fit like the sweaters I saw online. It wasn’t as polished. And at the time, I just assumed that thin-yarn sweaters required tons of shaping—German short rows, increases, decreases, seams, aaaaa 🤯.
I went back to chunky wool and 15 mm needles because it gave me the creative freedom I needed. And even now, I still sell chunky-knit patterns—not because they’re a shortcut, but because they’re genuinely the best way for beginners to start with confidence.
So why did all of this happen? Why did I stay away from thinner yarns and elegant designs for so long? It wasn’t because knitting was hard—it was because gauge felt like a puzzle I couldn’t solve.
Gauge was the first thing I saw in patterns—and it made me feel lost before I even got started.
Now, let’s move to the next part: What happens when you ignore gauge?
Ignoring gauge is like buying shoes without trying them on—then immediately going for a long walk. Except instead of sore feet, you’ll end up with a sweater that doesn’t fit.
Gauge is important because it dictates the overall size of your project. If your gauge is off, your project will be proportionally different from the pattern's intended size.
Here’s what actually happens when you ignore gauge:
- Your sweater is two sizes too big. Maybe you tell yourself it’s a "relaxed fit."
- Or it’s too small. That cozy, oversized pullover? It’s suddenly a crop top.
- Your drape is completely wrong. You imagined an airy, flowing fabric. Instead, it’s stiff and dense. Or the opposite—it stretches out like an old, worn-out tee.
- Your sleeves are a mystery. Will they be the right length? Who knows? They could hit at the wrist… or the fingertips.
A knitting pattern is just a set of instructions. It assumes you’re following the rules. If you don't match the gauge, your project won't match the pattern.
But let’s be honest… Who wants to swatch? Here’s the secret: swatching doesn’t waste your time. It saves you time.
Because here’s the real nightmare—spending weeks on a project, only to realize halfway through that something is off. Your gut tells you it’s wrong, but you keep going, hoping it’ll magically work out. It won’t.
That’s why a 30-minute swatch is the best investment you can make. It’s like a sneak peek into the future of your project. It tells you exactly what to expect, so there are no surprises when you cast off.
Quick reality check: I once went down a rabbit hole of YouTube videos about gauge troubleshooting, and there’s one myth I kept seeing—"gauge lies."
Well, it doesn’t. If your swatch is large enough, knit with the same yarn and needles, stretched to test its flexibility, and properly wet-blocked, it will give you the most reliable result. Ignoring it? That’s when things start to go wrong.
Okay, but what if your swatch is off?
You’ve done the responsible thing. You knit your swatch, measured it, but your stitches don’t match the pattern.
Now what? Most advice tells you to simply adjust your needle size:
- Too many stitches? → Go up a needle size.
- Too few stitches? → Go down a needle size.
Sounds easy, right? Here’s the catch: that only works if your yarn is within the right weight range for the pattern.
If your yarn is too thin, using bigger needles will create a loose, holey, and unstable fabric. If your yarn is too thick, switching to smaller needles will make it stiff, dense, and hard to wear.
The problem isn’t just the stitch count—it’s the yarn.
The right fix: Read the yarn label before you cast on.
This is where checking your yarn’s recommended gauge comes in. Every yarn label tells you the suggested stitch count per 10 cm (4 inches). If the pattern says 18 stitches per 10 cm and your yarn label says 22 stitches per 10 cm, you’re working with the wrong yarn weight.
This mistake happens all the time. Read my past Esenote "They said it’s Aran weight yarn".
So what can you do?
- Check the label before you swatch. If the recommended gauge is far off, the yarn won’t behave as expected.
- If your yarn is too thin → Holding it double with a strand of mohair or another matching fiber can help bulk it up without losing drape. Read Esenote "Guide to combining yarns with mohair: Tips and ideas".
- If your yarn is too thick → Consider knitting a different size from the pattern (this same approach can work if your yarn is too thin - go a size up). If your gauge is 15 stitches per 10 cm but the pattern is written for 16 stitches, you might be able to follow the instructions for a smaller size and still get a wearable fit.
- If the fabric feels wrong, trust your instincts—because no amount of needle adjustments will fix a yarn that doesn’t match the pattern.
A swatch isn’t just about numbers. It’s about how the fabric feels in your hands.
Adjusting gauge isn’t just math—it’s about making sure your project looks and feels the way you imagined.
So next time you’re tempted to skip the swatch, ask yourself—would you rather take 30 minutes now to ensure a perfect fit? Or spend 30+ hours knitting something that doesn’t?
Your future self will thank you ☺️
❤️ I hope this Esenote was useful and inspiring.
Warm regards,
Julia Piro
Knitwear Designer & Esenotes Curator
P.S. Follow me on Instagram or Facebook for behind-the-scenes updates!
P.S.S. Alex (my husband) and I are working on a tool that will help if your gauge is 1-2 stitches off. We’re still refining it to make sure it works seamlessly, but I hope you’ll get to try it in April with the Summer Soul Top.