"They said it’s Aran weight yarn"
Let me tell you a story about one of my beginner knitters, Kate. If you’ve ever felt confused by yarn labels, you’re not alone—this might sound familiar.
Kate had just discovered my YouTube channel and was feeling inspired to knit the Drop in Dream sweater—the one made with Drops Nepal, my favorite aran weight yarn.
Excited to dive in, she found a wool yarn labeled ‘aran weight’ online, ordered it, and couldn’t wait to start. But as soon as she cast on her swatch, things didn’t feel right.
She messaged me, confused and frustrated, saying, “Julia, they said it’s aran weight yarn, but my swatch is too loose! I even went down a needle size, and now I’ve got more stitches than the pattern calls for. What’s going on?”
We looked at her yarn, and guess what? Even though the label said ‘aran weight,’ the weight-to-length ratio was totally off—it was closer to a worsted yarn. This happens more often than you’d think—different manufacturers have their own standards, so not all aran weights are created equal.
Here’s the happy ending: Kate didn’t give up. With a simple adjustment—choosing a more suitable needle size and going up a size for the sweater—she was able to use her yarn beautifully. (I explained this method in another Esenote: “Okay, your gauge is different. What’s the plan?”.)
Honestly, this is one of those lessons you pick up with experience—I’ve been there myself! And it’s not just Kate; this is a common challenge for many knitters. That’s why I want to guide you through the steps I follow to read yarn labels and confidently find the perfect substitution.
How I read yarn labels: What matters most.
1.Front of the label: Fiber treatment.
When working with wool, I always check if it’s superwash. Superwash yarns are delightfully soft and non-itchy, but their stretchiness can make it difficult to predict the final measurements after washing. To save you from potential frustration, I usually avoid using superwash in my designs and gently advise beginners to do the same. After all, adjusting sleeve or body length can feel overwhelming when you're just starting out.
For cotton, I check whether it’s mercerized. Mercerized cotton has a shiny, slightly refined finish, which some may find a bit artificial. In contrast, regular cotton has a rustic appearance—perfect for creating that natural handmade vibe.
2. Weight and length.
These numbers are crucial! To make sure the yarn you choose suits your pattern, compare the weight (in grams) to the length (in meters or yards). This is the key to finding a good match.
Let me give you an example. Imagine your pattern calls for a yarn, but instead of focusing on whether it’s labeled as aran, worsted, Group A, B, C, or numbers like 3, 4, or 5, you focus on the weight and length of the yarn used in the garment. That’s what truly matters.
Take the Drop in Dream sweater I mentioned earlier and compare it to the popular Cascade 220 yarn. They say it is suitable for any aran pattern, but let’s check the numbers: it has 200m (219yds) per 100g (3.53oz). That’s a bit different from other aran yarns, and you’d likely find it hard to get 16–17 stitches in 10 cm (4 inches) without ending up with a loose fabric.
So, here’s my advice: when substituting yarn, aim for no more than a 5–10 yard difference. Anything beyond that can affect your results, so stick close to ensure your project comes out just right.
3. Fiber content
Matching the fiber content is one of the best ways to achieve results similar to the pattern photos. If the pattern calls for wool, sticking with wool is the safer choice—it’s less unpredictable and far more likely to give you the same look and feel.
But substituting wool with a completely different fiber, like cotton? That’s where things can get tricky. Cotton is heavier and tends to stretch under its own weight, especially in larger sizes like XL or bigger. I’ve seen it happen—finished garments end up two sizes larger than intended, and it’s such a frustration to start over.
And then, there are those moments when everything seems to line up perfectly—the weight, the length—and yet, the yarn still behaves differently. That one surprised me recently!
We come to the next important step in reading yarn labels.
4. Needle size and gauge
I recently discovered a yarn that I want to use in my upcoming projects—Katia Concept Cotton-Wool. I talked about it in a previous Esenote: “Basta overheating! 4 cotton-wool yarn test results.” (A quick heads-up — a few knitters on Instagram mentioned it tends to pill, so keep that in mind if you’re thinking of giving it a try.)
I bought this yarn as part of my testing journey for cotton-wool blends of the same weight, originally planning to work with 4 mm (US 6) needles. It has 105m (115yds) per 50g (1oz 3/4), labeled as DK, but I ended up knitting three swatches for each needle size until I stopped on 5 mm (US 8) needles and a gauge of 18 stitches per 10 cm. Honestly, I’d even go up to 5.5 mm (US 9) for a looser, more relaxed fabric.
Here’s the big takeaway: always check the recommended needle size and gauge on the label! For this yarn, the gauge is 16 stitches and 23 rows = 10x10 cm (4x4")—something you’d expect from aran weight yarn, not DK or worsted.
Even though this yarn has the same weight and length (step 2) and nearly the same fiber content as the yarns I was comparing (step 3), its unique structure—a merino fiber core wrapped in a cotton net—gave a completely different outcome.
5. Dye Lot The last thing I always check on a yarn label is the dye lot.
I didn’t think much of it when I started knitting—until one day, I ran out of yarn halfway through a sleeve. I ordered another skein, expecting it to match, but the shade was just slightly off—enough to be noticeable. That’s when I learned: even colors like white can vary between dye lots because manufacturers can’t replicate the exact tint every time.
Now, I always plan ahead. If I’m testing a single skein before committing, I make sure to request the same dye lot when ordering more. When my order arrives, I double-check the lot number to be sure it matches.
If you do end up with mismatched dye lots, here’s a tip: use the new yarn for ribbing or smaller sections where the difference won’t stand out. And if you’re already on the last sleeve, you can unravel the ribbing from the body, use that yarn to finish the sleeve, and knit the ribbing with the new shade.
The inspiration behind this Esenote.
I subscribe to a lot of email newsletters from yarn brands, knitwear designers, and knitting enthusiasts. They’re all helpful, but there’s one I always open as soon as it hits my inbox: Elizabeth Smith Knits’ Friday Night Knit Tip.
This is the most interesting email newsletter I receive. Elizabeth shares practical, beginner-friendly tips in such a clear and approachable way, and it’s become my go-to source for inspiration. Just last week, I received her email titled “Decoding Yarn Labels,” and it got me thinking—I have some thoughts to share with you about this topic too, my adventurous beginner!
If you’re curious, you can read her full guide and get a sense of her style on her blog: How to Read a Yarn Label’s Gauge Information. And if you’re looking for once-a-week tips written in a super clear, beginner-friendly way, I absolutely encourage you to subscribe to her emails. Or, of course, I’ll happily share her most inspiring posts with you!
Speaking of newsletters, do you subscribe to any worth sharing? Or is there one you enjoy reading purely for the joy of it, even if it doesn’t offer practical tips? I’d love to hear about it.
For me, I also love the Yarnist’s newsletters. Johnny’s style is incredible—reading his emails feels like diving into a magazine column or something equally fun and engaging. Honestly, I wouldn’t be surprised if he’s a writer!
❤️ I hope this Esenote was useful and inspiring.
Warm regards,
Julia Piro
Knitwear Designer & Esenotes Curator
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